3/5 Mark V. 1 year ago on Google
This
is
a
climber’s
review
of
a
climbing
gym.
If
you’re
a
beginner
or
a
weekend
warrior,
you’ll
probably
have
a
good
time,
so
just
ignore
this
review.
This
isn’t
about
their
plentiful
amenities,
well-kept
and
clean
gym,
or
friendly
staff
(all
true
btw),
it’s
about
the
climbing.
Let
me
preface
this
by
mentioning
that
I’m
just
vacationing
here.
In
my
limited
scope,
I
have
found
that
American
gyms
are
quite
soft
in
general.
Movement
is
no
exception,
and
stands
about
middle
of
the
pack
in
this
regard.
There
are
softer
gyms
(Sender
One
immediately
comes
to
mind),
but
I’ve
also
been
to
stiffer
gyms
during
my
time
here.
It
makes
sense,
as
this
is
a
commercial
gym,
not
necessarily
a
tryhard
climber’s
gym.
They
want
to
create
this
illusion
and
make
people
feel
like
they’re
progressing
fast.
Unfortunately,
this
has
created
a
massive
gap
in
skills
required
to
progress,
with
the
first
one
appearing
between
V3
and
V4.
V3s
here
are
typically
jug-fests
—
a
complete
disrespect
to
the
grade.
Whereas
V4s
are
calibrated
closer
to
what
you’d
find
in
stiffer
gyms.
This
reinforces
my
earlier
point
that
this
is
a
commercial
gym
designed
to
boost
a
beginner’s
ego
(easy
flashes
until
V4).
However,
for
beginners
who
actually
stick
around
and
try
to
take
climbing
seriously
for
the
first
time,
they
will
find
this
sudden
jump
in
difficulty
quite
a
jarring
experience
as
it
doesn’t
foster
incremental
progression.
My
next
gripe
involves
these
weird
extension
problems
with
a
tiered
grading
system.
For
example,
a
V6
problem
will
have
a
V6
finish
and
a
V7
finish.
The
holds
and
movements
to
the
V7
finish
aren’t
much
different
from
what
preceded
them
during
the
V6
portion,
just
more
of
the
same.
I
wouldn’t
call
this
lazy
setting
necessarily,
but
the
grade
of
a
problem
shouldn’t
be
a
function
of
length,
but
rather
the
difficulty
of
the
crux.
This
next
one
doesn’t
affect
me,
but
I’ve
seen
it
impact
shorter
climbers.
I
find
that
many
problems
are
height-gated
(either
start
or
crux)
with
no
intuitive
ways
around
them.
For
a
business
that
promotes
inclusivity,
this
is
an
ironic
oversight.
Maybe
I’m
just
spoiled
as
we
have
national
and
international
comp
setters
back
home,
but
it
is
possible
to
have
good
problems
for
a
range
of
heights
simultaneously.
I
hope
this
is
something
Movement
routesetters
can
work
and
improve
on.
This
last
one
doesn’t
affect
me
either,
as
I’m
just
a
visitor,
but
members
have
told
me
that
the
walls
here
reset
quite
often
(a
new
section
2-3x
a
week).
As
someone
used
to
a
minimum
8
week
rotation,
this
is
foreign
to
me.
How
do
you
encourage
members
to
project
hard
boulders?
I
don’t
want
this
come
off
too
much
as
a
rant.
This
comes
from
a
place
of
wanting
Movement
to
grow,
as
I
would
like
to
come
back
and
visit
when
I’m
in
the
area
again.
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