5/5 Jay K. 4 years ago on Google
Before
opening
Aqui
es
Texcoco,
owner
Francisco
"Paco"
Perez
had
been
preparing
barbacoa
("barbecue"
from
Spanish)
in
fire-filled
pits
in
the
mountain
town
of
Texcoco
since
he
was
12,
mastering
the
art
of
slow-cooking
marinated
lamb
underground
in
the
outskirts
of
Mexico
City.
In
2007,
he
found
what
he
believed
to
be
a
more
efficient
way
that
also
complied
with
California
law
-
in
using
a
stainless
steel
oven,
Perez
claims
he
is
able
to
mostly
replicate
the
results
he
got
from
the
traditional
methods
which
are
not
allowed
for
restaurants
on
this
side
of
the
border.
I'm
not
sure
what
I
was
expecting
out
of
the
"Lamb
Barbacoa"
--
but
here
it
was
very,
very
tender
and
had
the
consistency
of
braised
veal
shank
removed
from
a
simmer
at
that
perfect
time
when
it
still
has
a
somewhat
firm
softness,
but
before
it
gets
stringy.
It
very
much
tastes
like
lamb,
but
without
being
very
musky
or
grassy.
I
felt
like
I
wanted
something
more
-
perhaps
some
smokiness
given
the
simulation
of
an
underground
preparation?
But
no,
no
smokiness.
I'm
reminded
of
what
another
San
Diegan
purveyor
of
barbacoa
had
told
me
about
barbacoa
cooked
in
Mexico
takes
on
some
of
the
flavor
of
the
earth
it
is
buried
in.
Obviously,
that
wasn't
in
play
here
either.
Despite
its
tenderness,
the
meat
was
quite
lean
due
to
my
request
-
so
perhaps
thereinlies
the
magic
of
Perez's
preparation
-
finding
a
way
to
tenderize
lean
meat
from
the
lamb's
ribs,
head,
and
various
organs.
The
barbacoa
is
served
with
corn
tortillas,
pickled
onions,
as
well
as
fresh
onions
and
cilantro.
I
enjoyed
with
the
golden
"Consommé,"
a
meaty
broth
made
from
barbacoa
drippings,
loaded
with
garbanzo
beans
and
rice.
I've
ordered
it
"con
pata"
(i.e.,
with
a
lamb's
foot),
which
adds
collagen
and
heft
to
the
broth.
Aqui
es
Texcoco
offers
smaller
portions
of
their
barbacoa
in
"Barbacoa
Tacos,"
made
with
tortillas
they
make
in-house,
as
well
as
in
"Barbacoa
Quesatacos,"
which
feature
a
tortilla
made
of
crispy
and
melted
grilled
cheese
wrapped
around
the
barbacoa.
A
"Huitlacoche
Quesataco"
consists
of
the
same
"cheese
tortilla,"
but
with
a
filling
of
sweet
corn
and
funky
"corn
smut."
If
these
"quesatacos"
sound
rich,
they
most
definitely
are,
so
you'll
want
to
leverage
the
curtido
(a
habanero
onion
salad)
on
the
side,
which
is
excellent
at
cutting
through
the
grease,
but
may
also
melt
a
hole
through
your
stomach.
Surprisingly,
my
favorite
taco
on
the
menu
has
not
contained
barbacoa,
but
rather
is
the
"Chicharrón
Prensado
Taco,"
which
features
pressed
pork
belly
and
crispy
chicharrón
bits.
Think
"bacon
taco"
without
the
smoke
and
you're
close.
Combining
fantastically-flavored
meat
with
well-made
corn
tortillas
will
always
yield
a
great
taco,
and
Aqui
es
Texcoco
is
worth
checking
out
just
for
their
tacos,
even
though
they
offer
so
much
more.
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