4/5 Stephen o. 3 years ago on Google
Sleepless
in
Penang,
the
breaking
dawn
beckons
a
stroll
in
a
local
market
in
Georgetown,
left
alone
amidst
the
surrounding
rapid
developments
on
this
sinking
river
basin.
Smell
the
change
of
air
as
you
approach
the
morning
cackle
of
locals
catching
up
on
yesterday's
news.
Curry
laksa
noodles
at
RM4.70
was
a
steal,
with
pigs
blood,
cuttlefish,
cockles,
tofu
croutons
and
beansprout
in
a
spicy
coconut
milk
broth.
Almost
good
to
the
last
drop
until
the
spicy
oil
overwhelms
its
sweetness.
On
a
different
day,
tried
the
3rd
generation
Chulia
Street
Curry
Mee
stall
which
offered
as
good
as
it
gets
at
RM4.50.
The
pale
coconut
soup
was
lifted
by
its
aromatic
spicy
chilly
oil.
The
famous
Duck
Koay
Teow
Thng
by
the
old
chattering
uncle
has
become
the
main
show
in
this
market
place
with
customers
jostling
to
get
in
their
takeaway
orders
mindful
of
their
morning
commute.
The
bowl
of
rice
noodles
(RM5)
is
served
with
shredded
duck
meat,
gizzard,
fishcake
and
twin
fishballs
in
a
duck
bone
consomme
garnished
with
pork
lard,
garlic
oil
and
spring
onions.
Add
on
fishballs
or
pork
intestines
for
RM1.50.
The
old
chef
laments
that
there
is
short
supply
of
duck/pig
blood
curds,
a
must
have
accompaniment
to
this
Penang
dish,
as
his
excuse
for
today's
missing
ingredient
that
did
not
escape
my
scrutiny.
Char
Koay
Teow
is
fried
by
an
energetic
cook
and
manned
by
his
better
half
with
a
loud
commanding
voice.
The
RM6
plate
stands
out
with
generous
pink
Chinese
sausages(unpeeled),
twin
prawns
and
beansprouts,
but
could
be
elevated
further
with
pork
lard
and
fresher
cockles
over
charcoal.
To
while
away
your
waiting,
there
is
a
petite
corner
stall
by
two
cuties
selling
Nyonya
kuih
at
RM1
per
piece.
In
the
morning,
a
more
popular
purveyor
of
Nyonya
kuih
also
sells
at
RM1.00
a
piece,
with
a
Five
ingredients
Hokkien
style
rice
dumpling
(Bak
Chang
RM6).
Chinese
pancake
and
doughnut
(RM1)
are
offered
by
another
stall,
with
a
salty
twist.
Don't
be
tempted
by
the
offer
of
fried
dimsum
(3
for
RM10)
by
the
adjacent
stall.
The
snacks
are
just
oily
with
mediocrity.
At
the
drinks
corner
next
to
the
temple,
don't
be
tempted
by
the
Lor
Han
Kor,
a
watery
version
with
canned
longan
at
a
staggering
RM2.30
served
in
a
dog's
bowl.
Try
instead
the
decent
Harku
Chow
herbal
drink
(RM1.70)
made
by
an
old
man
on
a
medicinal
tea
brewing
cart.
Walk
about
the
market
and
find
stalls
selling
unique
shellfish
and
German
style
roast
pork
knuckle
(RM45).
Fresh
pork
butcher
sells
lard
(RM12/kg)
and
will
mince
meat
to
order.
Fresh
chicken
stall
sells
organic
dressed
bird
(RM29)
and
old
hen
(RM12).
Picked
up
a
small
grouper(RM40/kg)
from
trawler
bycatch,
sometimes
whitings
are
aplenty.
A
rare
halibut
on
sale
at
RM26/kg.
An
adjacent
stall
sold
me
the
ever
popular
ikan
bulus
or
sillago
for
a
ridiculous
RM46/kg.
At
a
distant
corner,
conger
eels
were
on
sale
at
RM10/kg.
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