5/5 吴大春 3 years ago on Google
(Translated
by
Google)
The
historical
features
of
people's
life
in
the
food
culture
circle
in
Northeast
China
The
northeastern
region
had
a
long
history
of
grain
planting.
Since
the
"Book
of
the
Later
Han
Dynasty"
left
the
Northeast
region's
"Taiyi
Five
Grains"
literary
records,
there
have
been
countless
records
about
agriculture
here
in
the
official
history
books
and
private
historians.
However,
records
that
are
earlier
and
richer
than
written
records
are
a
large
number
of
unearthed
prehistoric
cultural
relics.
Among
the
prehistoric
cultural
sites
that
have
been
excavated
and
discovered
in
2013,
the
Xinle
site
in
Shenyang,
Liaoning
is
a
representative.
The
site
of
this
early
Neolithic
clan
commune
settlement,
which
has
been
more
than
7,200
years
ago,
reproduces
the
development
of
primitive
agriculture
with
its
grain
processing
factory
of
about
100
square
meters.
The
characteristics
of
the
large
proportion
of
sunn
and
soy
products
are
another
characteristic
of
food
culture
that
cannot
be
ignored
in
the
northeast
cultural
location.
Sunn
plants,
such
as
soybeans,
adzuki
beans,
mung
beans,
peas,
broad
beans,
cowpeas,
lentils,
cloud
beans,
concanavali
beans,
kidney
beans,
etc.
There
are
more
than
20
varieties,
which
can
be
used
as
staple
food
for
cooking,
porridge,
steaming,
and
non-staple
food.
.
At
the
same
time,
soybeans
can
also
be
used
to
make
sauce,
soy
sauce,
tofu,
bean
sprouts,
and
soy
milk.
The
abundant
winter
storage
is
a
clever
creation
of
the
food
culture
of
the
people
in
the
Northeast.
Due
to
the
short
frost-free
period,
people
only
eat
local
vegetables
for
about
6
months
(the
north-south
span
is
large,
so
the
difference
is
also
very
large).
In
order
to
meet
the
need
for
vegetables
in
the
long
winter,
people
in
the
Northeast,
especially
the
general
public
in
the
lower
classes,
have
to
dry
large
quantities
of
dried
vegetables
(the
varieties
can
be
as
many
as
10)
in
the
summer
when
there
are
many
varieties
of
vegetables
and
low
prices.
In
autumn,
a
large
amount
of
winter
vegetables
such
as
cabbage,
radish,
and
potatoes
are
kiln
stored.
At
the
same
time,
a
large
amount
of
pickled
cabbage
and
various
kinds
of
pickles
with
rich
variety
of
pickled
products
are
required.
This
is
a
historical
tradition
and
a
custom
that
still
remains
in
the
vast
rural
areas
to
this
day.
Frozen
food
is
one
of
the
typical
food
customs
of
the
people
in
Northeast
China.
The
long
cold
winter
brings
many
difficulties
to
people's
dietary
life,
but
it
also
determines
the
unique
cultural
style.
Severe
winter
is
a
large
cold
storage
blessed
by
nature.
It
can
store
various
foods
and
raw
materials
in
unlimited
quantities
and
at
no
cost,
sterilize
and
preserve
freshness,
and
have
a
unique
flavor.
Meat
can
be
buried
under
the
snow
or
covered
with
ice
glaze
for
long-term
preservation,
and
vegetables
can
also
be
buried
under
the
snow
to
preserve
freshness
and
color.
You
can
freeze
tofu,
frozen
milk,
freeze-dried
food
(steamed
buns,
bean
buns,
dumplings,
rice
cakes),
and
frozen
fruits.
As
for
the
magical
food
"Bingtang
Haws"
with
red
fruits
dipped
in
rock
sugar,
it
is
a
custom
delicacy
in
the
northeast
into
winter.
Frozen
meat
can
be
easily
cut
into
very
thin
slices
and
very
fine
shreds.
Frozen
fish
tastes
more
beautiful
and
easier
to
process
and
cook.
Of
course,
let
alone
all
kinds
of
ice
creams
and
freezing
points
that
people
love
in
their
lives
in
2013.
Not
afraid
of
ice
and
snow,
I
love
ice
and
snow.
Not
only
do
I
like
to
eat
frozen
food
in
summer
to
cool
down
and
prevent
heatstroke,
but
also
like
frozen
food
for
refreshing
appetite
in
winter.
This
is
indeed
the
unique
taste
of
the
Northeast
people
who
are
both
admired
and
afraid
of
the
southern
residents.
Since
the
1980s,
a
series
of
new
national
policies
have
had
a
significant
positive
impact
on
the
social
economy
and
national
dietary
life.
Farmers'
enthusiasm
for
production
and
living
standards
are
significantly
higher
than
before.
But
their
dietary
life
did
not
break
out
of
the
long-formed
pattern.
The
staple
food
is
still
corn,
sorghum,
millet,
wheat,
rice,
and
grass.
However,
the
proportion
of
"fine
grains"
of
wheat
and
rice
has
increased
significantly.
However,
only
the
reappearance
of
the
natural
and
reasonable
food
structure
in
history—of
course
the
reappearance
of
a
higher
historical
and
cultural
level,
can
the
regional
revolution
in
the
diet
of
the
Northeast
people
be
completed.
To
this
end,
people
in
the
Northeast
may
have
to
put
in
hard
work
for
at
least
half
a
century.
(Original)
东北地区饮食文化圈内民众生活的历史风貌
东北地区很早就有谷物种植业，自《后汉书》留下东北地区“土宜五谷”文录之后，累代官修史书及私家史乘关于这里农业史录不胜枚举。但是，比文字纪录更早、更丰富的纪录却是大量出土的史前文化遗存。在2013年已经发掘和发现的史前文化遗址中，辽宁沈阳市新乐遗址堪称代表。这座距今已7200多年的新石器时代早期氏族公社聚落遗址，以它那约有100平方米的谷物加工厂，再现了原始农业的发达景象。
菽类比重大及豆制品多的特点，是东北文化区位内不能忽略的又一饮食文化特征。菽类植物，如大豆、小豆、绿豆、豌豆、蚕豆、豇豆、扁豆、云豆、刀豆、菜豆等20余个品种，既可烧饭、煮粥、裹蒸为主食，也可作为菜肴副食。同时，大豆还可以制酱、酱油、豆腐、豆芽、豆浆各种成品。
丰厚的冬贮，是东北地区人们饮食文化的聪明创造。由于无霜期短，人们吃地产蔬菜的时间只有6个月左右（南北跨度大，因此差异也很大）。为解决漫长冬季对蔬菜的需要，东北人，尤其是下层社会广大民众，都要在夏季里蔬菜品种多、数量多又价格低廉的时候大量晾制干菜（品种可多达10余种）。入秋之时则要大量窑藏白菜、萝卜、马铃薯等越冬蔬菜。同时要大量渍酸菜、腌制品种丰富的各种咸菜。这是历史传统，也是直到今天仍在广大农村保留着的风俗。
冷冻食品是东北地区人民的典型食俗之一。漫长的寒冷冬季，给人们的饮食生活带来了许多困难，但也因此决定了特异的文化风格。严冬是大自然赐予的得天独厚的大冷库。可以无限量、无代价的储存各种食品和原料、灭菌防腐保鲜、独具风味。肉类可以埋在雪下或淋水挂上冰衣长久保鲜，蔬菜也可以埋在雪下保鲜保色。可以冻豆腐、冻奶、冻干粮（馒头、豆包、饺子、年糕）、冻水果。至于红果蘸上冰糖的神奇食品“冰糖葫芦”，更是东北入冬季里的风俗美食。冷冻的肉可以很便利地切成极薄的片和极细的丝。冻鱼的味道更美，也更便于加工烹制。当然更不要说2013年生活中人们喜爱的冰淇淋等各种冰果、冰点了。不惧冰雪，喜爱冰雪，不仅夏季里嗜食冷冻食品以降温防暑特色，冬季里也喜欢冷冻食品爽口开胃。这的确是令南国居民们既欣羡又怯于问津的东北人独具特色的口味。
20世纪80年代以来，国家的一系列新政策对社会经济和国民饮食生活产生了重大的积极影响。农民的生产积极性和生活水平都明显的高于从前。但他们的饮食生活并没有脱出长久形成的模式。主食仍是玉米、高粱、谷子、麦、稻、稷。但麦、稻“细粮”的比重明显上升了。但是，只有历史上那种天然合理的食料结构的再现——当然是更高历史文化层面的再现，东北人饮食的区域型革命才告完成。为此目的，东北人也许要付出至少半个世纪时间的辛勤努力。
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