3/5 Wim M. 2 years ago on Google
What
was
once
a
place
to
discover
niche
and
establishing
designers
is
now
simply
a
place
to
buy
established
brands
found
across
the
web.
Sure,
some
exclusives
exist.
These
exclusives
are
typically
unique
patterns/prints,
not
exquisite
one
offs
from
the
runway.
They’re
from
Prada,
not
Andreas
Grossi.
They
don’t
make
a
splash
and
even
the
Kiko
Kostadinov
pieces
were
lackluster.
I
love
Raf
and
Miuccia
together,
but
they
have
a
measly
half
rack
while
Balenciaga
has
a
security
guard
post.
The
Walter
buy
was
a
tad
predictable.
Priorities
are
on
big
ticket
items
for
the
easy-to-please.
I
can’t
blame
them,
easy
money
is
easy
money,
but
in
2022
this
place
must
now
be
a
beacon
for
NYC.
It
is
not.
With
losing
Opening
Ceremony,
Totokaelo,
10
Corso
Como,
Words-Smith,
and
Barney’s
the
past
two
years
-
NYC
is
sort
of
desolate
for
places
where
thoughts
and
commerce
converge.
In
hindsight
maybe
DSM
was
never
as
transgressive
as
I
considered
it
originally
to
be,
but
it
FELT
rebellious
and
groundbreaking.
It
FELT
like
I
was
walking
into
somewhere
unique.
It’s
not
just
that
I’ve
grown,
it’s
that
DSM
doesn’t
seem
to
have.
The
curation
and
merchandising
in
2022
hasn’t
progressed
to
include
many
young
designers
establishing
themselves
throughout
the
pandemic.
It
doesn’t
include
many
NYC
designers
or
independent
American
studios.
What
makes
the
London
DSM
store
a
tad
more
unique
is
their
investment
in
UK
designers
and
different
categories
like
vintage
books
and
art
editions.
The
cafe
is
more
accessible
too.
Now
lacking
a
space
for
an
expansive
vision
of
retail,
where
are
young
American
designers
and
artists
going
to
turn?
Probably
LA,
which
right
now
is
in
much
better
shape
than
NYC
on
thought
commerce.
The
LA
DSM
is
even
worse
than
NYC,
somehow.
And
I
hear
from
friends
that
working
for
DSM
isn’t
a
positive
experience
so
I
can’t
feel
good
about
supporting
them
even
if
I
did
see
items
I
wanted.
I’m
not
saying
these
things
because
I
hate
DSM.
I
want
DSM
to
be
the
best
it
can
be
despite
also
functioning
as
a
capitalistic
venture.
The
racks
haven’t
moved
since
I
last
visited
in
2019,
and
the
clothing
doesn’t
appear
to
reflect
Spring
2022
just
yet.
Maybe
they’re
hurting
fiscally,
but
I’m
more
inclined
to
believe
they’re
not
putting
in
the
effort
to
source
and
accommodate
new
work.
It’s
easier
to
rely
on
the
crowds
rabid
for
hype
(and
now
fairly
stale)
brands
like
Supreme,
Gucci,
and
Balenciaga.
There
is,
however,
a
lovely
new
display
of
archival
JPG.
Thank
you
Courtney
for
leaving
a
quick
and
courteous
comment
about
asking
for
a
tour
of
exclusives
next
I’m
in.
I
do
know
my
way
around
the
store
so
didn’t
think
to
ask,
BUT
will
next
time.
Perhaps
there
is
a
secret
room
with
exclusives
I
don’t
know
about
from
underrepresented
designers?
Thanks
for
reading
-
hoping
this
space
lives
up
to
its
potential
in
2023.
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