5/5 Wayne C. 2 years ago on Google
1/2
ANNIVERSARY
DINNER
AT
2-STAR
MICHELIN
RESTAURANT
When
in
pursuit
of
an
indelible
dinner
out,
in
San
Francisco,
a
bountiful
place
by
any
definition,
to
celebrate
with
my
wife
--who
makes
me
happy
because
she's
the
charming
gardener
of
my
soul
.
.
.
because
our
relationship
has
happily
marched
on
for
some
five
decades
now--
I've
thought
hard
about
it
for
the
past
month.
In
the
beginning,
I
began
to
reminisce
about
other
monumental
restaurant
experiences
with
her
over
time.
Joel
Robuchon
and
his
iconic
mashed
potatoes
at
Jamain,
in
Paris,
in
the
1980s.
Salmon
tartare
with
sweet
red
onion
creme
fraiche
cornets
at
The
French
Laundry
in
the
late
1990s.
Just-harvested
fresh
white
truffles
at
Trattoria
Cascina
Schiavenza
in
Alba,
Italy,
in
2008.
Trying
to
equal
or
surpass
those
experiences
surely
should
be
possible
in
a
place
where
culinary
and
wine
giants
sit
on
every
street
corner.
There
are
six
Michelin
3-stars
and
eight
2-stars
within
a
reasonable
Uber
distance
from
home.
So
began
the
long
--and
delightful!--
process
of
deciding
where
to
dine.
Gotta
take
a
car
service.
Gonna
try
not
to
tip
more
than
two
entire
dinners
in
a
normal
city.
Gotta
try
to
keep
the
meal
under
4
hours.
Gonna
bring
my
own
bottle
of
wine
because
I've
got
some
good
ones
since
moving
here.
Gotta
ask
around
to
get
recommendations
from
food
crazed
local
friends.
Well,
Commis
in
Oakland,
a
Michelin
2-star,
got
the
nod.
Not
too
far
an
Uber
ride.
Tantalizing
reviews
and
history.
An
excitingly
novel
spot.
First
came
the
fight
for
a
table.
Here
the
battlefield
is
the
website
"tock."
Once
you've
learned
when
reservations
for
the
next
30
days
are
released,
you
anxiously
log
on
to
snag
your
preferred
day
and
preferred
time
--probably
not
a
weekend
night
and
5:30
p.m.
vs.
9:15
p.m.,
for
me.
Then
you
cross
your
fingers.
I
scored:
5:30
on
the
Friday
night
after
Thanksgiving.
My
first
experience
with
tock,
the
gatekeeper.
If
you
score,
then
tock
scores:
$100
deposit,
for
the
table
as
they
say,
for
each
diner,
with
no
refunds,
no
day
or
time
changes,
although
tock
transferring
your
reservation
to
someone
else
is
kosher.
Commis
is
a
spare,
modernist,
and
unapologetically
boldly
stark.
This
purposeful
mood
is
carried
out
through
every
one
of
the
dozen
courses,
in
the
flatware
and
the
plates
and
bowls
and
serving
platforms
and
hot
stones
that
were
put
before
us.
And
the
food
is
also
decidedly
architectural.
The
shapes
of
each
ingredient
in
each
dish
seem
intentionally
crafted
and
purposely
placed.
Each
dish
is
like
a
dainty,
hand-painted
piece
of
jewelry.
Or
a
sculpture,
such
as
at
Scandinavian-flavored
in2Design,
a
la
Kate
Middleton.
Even
the
chop
sticks
were
metal
with
a
padded
grip.
One
coolio
knife
apparently
baffles
diners.
It
accompanies
the
dry-aged
duck
breast,
which
I
tried
to
cut
with
the
wrong
edge.
The
duck
was
so
tough!
What
my
fingers
told
me
was
corroborated
in
my
mouth.
Contrarily,
Sara
said,
"Oh,
this
duck
is
so
tender!"
To
me,
the
waiter
said,
"By
way
of
a
reminder,
cut
the
duck
with
the
other
side
of
the
knife."
Many
a
diner
has
been
told
that,
even
many
times,
the
waiter
said
as
he
smiled
at
me.
I
turned
the
knife
around.
Then
the
duck
was
so
so
tender
to
the
cut
and
to
my
mouth.
I
never
knew
mouth
feel
was
influenced
unconsciously
by
finger
feel.
At
no
other
restaurant
have
I
ever
encountered
so
many
inscrutable
foods:
jellyfish,
kohlrabi,
house-made
tofu,
huckleberries,
black
vinegar,
lovage,
taro
root,
palm
sugar,
slow-poached
egg,
smoked
dates,
alliums,
malt,
button
mushroom
tisane,
chrysanthemum
leaf
oil,
osmanthus
tea,
dried
kale
oil,
chamomile
glace,
pickled
mustard
seeds,
oolong
mousse,
puffed
forbidden
rice,
miso
sweet
potato
tart,
and
fish
sauce
salted
caramel.
All
interesting,
I
suppose.
Of
all
the
ingredients,
I
was
charmed
by
the
flavors,
textures,
colors,
and
whimsey
of
some:
a
diminutive
radish
with
its
greens,
very
familiar
diced
beetroot;
luscious
smoked
dates;
silky
poached
black
cod
in
clam
broth;
ethereal
button-mushroom
tisane
or
consomme;
luscious
dry-aged
duck;
and
richly
flavored,
dainty,
honey
nut
squash.
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