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[Taiwan
Chronicle]
Tainan
City
God
Temple
No.
23
At
the
turn
of
the
spring
and
summer
of
1994,
on
a
lukewarm
evening,
my
friends
and
I,
a
total
of
seven
people,
sat
on
the
threshold
of
the
main
floor
of
the
Shanghai
City
God
Temple,
with
a
large
wooden
door
behind
us.
We
had
two
bottles
of
rice
wine,
which
seemed
to
be
There
are
local
Japanese
wines
in
Shanghai.
Six
of
the
seven
are
boys,
one
of
the
seven
is
not
drinking,
and
five
of
the
seven
are
graduating
from
college
that
year.
The
future
is
uncertain.
Only
one
of
the
seven
rides
a
bicycle.
Stop
on
the
steps
of
the
main
hall.
That
was
my
bike,
that
was
the
beginning
of
my
youth,
I
just
remember
that
everyone
was
drunk,
someone
was
riding
my
bike,
there
was
one
sitting
on
the
bag
rack,
they
went
out
for
a
ride,
and
then
came
back
in
despair
,
said
that
he
was
fined
5
yuan
for
encountering
the
joint
defense
team.
I
like
Chenghuang
Temple
very
much,
because
I
like
to
read
"Liao
Zhai",
the
first
one
is
"Kao
Chenghuang",
so
I
have
a
very
early
knowledge
of
the
title
of
"Chenghuang",
but
I
don't
have
a
sensory
understanding.
The
hall
where
we
were
sitting,
all
the
people
in
Shanghai
knew
that
it
was
the
Chenghuang
Temple,
but
in
1994,
no
one
knew
what
the
Lord
Chenghuang
looked
like,
because
the
statues
and
all
the
religious
objects
in
it
were
taken
by
the
Red
Guards
as
early
as
August
1966.
The
parking
lot
on
Lishui
Road
was
all
burned
down.
The
place
where
we
were
sitting,
where
the
plaque
of
the
Temple
of
the
City
God
should
have
been,
had
the
words
"Yuyuan
Shopping
Mall".
Everyone
knows
what
happened
after
that.
The
City
God
Temple
has
changed
back
to
a
Taoist
temple,
the
City
God
Qin
Yubo
is
back,
and
the
City
God
Huo
Guang
is
back...
What?
There
are
two
city
gods
in
Shanghai?
To
be
polite,
if
you
add
Chen
Huacheng,
there
used
to
be
three
city
gods
in
Shanghai!
It's
just
that
they
do
not
have
the
separation
of
powers,
and
together
they
shelter
thousands
of
souls
in
Shanghai.
I
came
to
the
City
God
Temple
in
Tainan
Prefecture,
and
I
want
to
break
the
sentence
again.
What
is
"Tainan
Prefecture"
and
"City
God
Temple"?
Or
"Tainan"
and
"Fucheng
God
Temple"?
Strictly
speaking,
it
should
be
"Tainan",
"Taiwan
House"
and
"Chenghuang
Temple".
Tainan,
which
used
to
be
the
seat
of
the
prefectural
city
of
Taiwan,
what
is
the
concept?
In
other
words,
Tainan
used
to
be
the
capital
of
Taiwan.
Later,
the
prefectural
city
of
Taiwan
was
moved
to
Taipei.
Who
moved
it?
It
was
moved
by
my
great
grandfather,
Shao
Youlian.
Taiwan
Fu
Chenghuang
Temple,
built
in
1669,
was
Chengtianfu
Chenghuang
Temple
at
that
time.
It
was
the
earliest
officially
built
Chenghuang
Temple
in
Taiwan.
It
has
been
handed
down
for
hundreds
of
years
and
has
never
been
used
for
shopping
malls.
During
the
Qing
Dynasty,
it
was
renamed
"Taiwan
Fu
Chenghuang
Temple".
Taiwan
Fucheng
God
Temple
is
dedicated
to
Lord
Wei
Ling.
Unlike
Shanghai
City
God,
who
has
a
name
and
a
surname,
there
is
no
specific
corresponding
person
in
Taiwan
Fu
City
God.
Lord
Wei
Ling
is
his
title.
The
city
god
of
Jinling
in
the
capital
was
named
"Fu
Ming
Lingwang",
and
the
"Land
of
Longxing"
in
Bianzhou,
Haozhou,
Taiping,
Hezhou,
Chuzhou
and
other
prefectures
were
also
named
Zhengyi
Wangjue,
with
the
addition
of
"Inheritance".
The
honorary
title
of
Tianjian
Guosimin".
The
rest
of
the
city
gods
are
conferred
titles:
Fu
Chenghuang
is
titled
"Second-Rank
Wei
Ling
Gong",
State
City
God
is
titled
"Three-Rank
Lingyou
Marquis",
County
City
God
is
titled
"Fourth-Rank
Xianyoubo",
and
"Jiancha
Simin"
is
added.
Honorable
title;
so
the
Taiwanese
government
is
"Willing
Gong".
If
you
go
to
the
Taiwan
Palace
City
God
Temple
in
Tainan,
you
will
laugh,
because
this
maharaja's
temple
is
a
bit
shabby,
and
it
is
much
worse
than
the
newly
built
Shanghai
City
God
Temple.
That
is
a
small
temple
on
the
street.
There
is
no
archway
and
no
mountain
gate.
The
front
hall
(Sanchuan
Hall)
is
built
directly
in
the
middle
of
the
road
and
is
connected
with
the
main
hall
by
a
worship
pavilion.
Except
for
the
narrow
patios
on
both
sides
of
the
pavilion,
the
two
halls
are
almost
has
become
one.
There
is
a
large
plaque
in
the
Sanchuan
Hall
(front
hall)
with
the
three
characters
"Er
Lai"
written
on
it.
Together
with
the
plaque
with
the
word
"One"
in
the
Temple
of
Heaven
in
Tainan
and
the
plaque
"Knowing
the
World"
in
the
Zhuxi
Temple,
they
are
collectively
called
the
"Three
Famous
Plaques
in
Tainan".
Above
the
lintel
of
Sanchuan
Gate,
there
is
a
large
abacus.
The
couplet
on
the
left
and
right
reads
"right
and
wrong
are
made
by
oneself,
right
and
wrong
cannot
be
tolerated",
which
symbolizes
that
Duke
Chenghuang
uses
the
abacus
to
calculate
the
merits
and
demerits
of
the
world,
with
the
intention
of
punishing
evil
and
promoting
good.
In
fact,
they
also
have
a
large
abacus
with
a
length
of
3.6
meters,
which
is
used
for
"going
out
to
meetings
(tours)".
Despite
the
small
size
of
the
temple,
there
are
quite
a
few
deities
worshiped.
The
first
Sanchuan
Temple
to
enter,
there
are
two
pairs
of
Seven
Lords
and
Eight
Lords
(Black
and
White
Impermanence)
and
a
pair
of
Gan
Lord
Liu
Lord.
Among
them,
there
is
a
pair
of
Black
and
White
Impermanence
that
is
taller
than
people.
Terrible.
In
the
center
of
the
main
hall
is
the
City
God
Lord
Wei
Ling.
In
front
of
the
seat
are
the
civil
judges
and
the
military
judges.
There
are
twenty-four
divisions
on
both
sides,
namely,
the
Division
of
Punishment,
the
Division
of
Security,
the
Division
of
Yin
and
Yang,
the
Division
of
Examination,
the
Division
of
Induction,
the
Division
of
Express
Report,
and
the
Division
of
Procuratorial
Affairs.
,
Superintendent
of
Grain
Division,
Division
of
Note
Fu,
Division
of
Rites,
Division
of
Rewards,
Division
of
Inspection,
Division
of
Hell,
Division
of
Epidemic
Prevention,
Division
of
Cases,
Division
of
Inspections,
Division
of
Good
Wishes,
Division
of
Gong
Cao,
Division
of
Documents,
Division
of
Education
and
Administration,
Division
of
Sushi,
Division
of
Classics
,
Department
of
Punishment,
Department
of
Prosecution,
it
is
said
that
every
time
the
exam
period
comes,
students
will
come
to
pray
for
good
grades
by
the
"Department
of
Examinations"
and
"Department
of
Education
and
Administration".
The
fact
is
that
the
"Kongsong
Division"
does
not
care
about
"examination
skills",
but
it
is
concerned
with
"assessing
(officials)
merits
and
demerits",
which
is
really
a
mistake.
In
the
center
of
the
third
hall
are
Guanyin
Buddha,
Master
Chenghuang
and
Grandma
Chenghuang,
and
Mrs.
Linshui,
Empress
Zhusheng,
and
Our
Lady
of
Heaven.
On
both
sides
are
the
18
Arhats.
The
18
Arhats
here
are
not
the
same
as
the
common
ones,
except
that
they
have
the
same
"Subduing
Dragon",
"Fuhu
Tiger",
"Long
Eyebrows",
"Cloth
Bag",
"Bodhidharma
(Crossing
the
River)"
and
"Into
the
Lion
(Laughing
Lion)".
Apart
from
"Happy
(Joyful)"
and
"Clear
Ears
(Pictured
Ears)",
the
others
are
usually
uncommon,
such
as
"The
Venerable
Cizi,
the
Venerable
Mulian,
the
Venerable
Zhigong,
the
One
Who
Does
Not
Seek
the
Venerable,
the
One
Who
Viewed
Venerable
Jing,
Venerable
Lao
Seng,
Venerable
Flying
Cymbals,
Venerable
Ruen,
Venerable
Dajue",
and
even
a
Venerable
Emperor
Liangwu
in
a
dragon
robe.
In
addition,
there
are
two
small
halls
with
single
rooms,
on
the
east
is
Ksitigarbha
Bodhisattva,
and
on
the
right
is
Fude
Zhengshen
(Tui
Gong).
You
see,
although
the
temple
is
small,
the
gods
are
complete,
and
one
worship
is
enough,
which
is
convenient
and
cost-effective.
The
architecture
of
Fuchenghuang
Temple
is
also
very
interesting.
In
addition
to
the
three
stars
of
Fortune,
Lushou
and
Shou
on
the
roof,
Li
Jing,
the
king
of
the
tower,
and
Yang
Jian,
the
god
of
Erlang,
there
are
also
the
Eight
Immortals
under
the
eaves,
all
of
which
are
exquisitely
carved
and
worth
seeing.
Interestingly,
there
is
a
pair
of
statues
with
eaves,
which
are
not
Chinese
at
first
glance,
and
are
called
"Hanfan
Carrying
Temple
Corners",
which
makes
them
smile.
Although
the
temple
is
small,
it
is
worth
playing.
If
the
cultural
relics
room
is
open,
there
will
be
many
good
things.
There
are
also
paper
official
hats
of
the
original
twenty-four
divisions,
which
are
quite
exquisite.
displayed.
Tainan
also
has
its
own
Chenghuang
Temple,
the
Chenghuang
Temple
in
Shouyi
County,
Taiwan,
which
is
just
a
1.3-kilometer
walk
to
the
northwest,
but
it
was
rebuilt
in
1980,
so
I
am
not
interested.
(Original)
[臺灣紀遊]臺南府城隍廟第廿三
1994年的春夏之交，某個不冷不熱的晚上，我與朋友們，一共七個人，坐在上海城隍廟大層的門檻上，後背貼着大木門，我們有兩瓶黃酒，好象是上海本地的和酒，七個人中有六個男生，七個人中有一個滴酒不沾，七個人中有五個當年就要大學畢業，前途未卜，七個人中只有一個人騎自行車，那輛車就停在大殿的臺階上。
那是我的自行車，那也是我青年的開始，只記得大家都喝得醺醺的，有人騎着我的車，書包架上還坐着一個，他們出去騎了一圈，後來灰溜溜地回來，說是碰到聯防隊的被罰了五元錢。
我很喜歡城隍廟，因為我喜歡讀《聊齋》，第一篇就是《考城隍》，所以我很早就對「城隍」這一職稱有了入門的知識，但是沒有感觀的認識。我們坐的那幢大殿，全上海人都知道那是城隍廟，但是94年的我們，沒人知道城隍老爺長什麼樣，因為裡面的神像和一切宗教用品早在1966年的8月，就被紅衛兵在麗水路停車場全都燒掉了。我們所坐的地方，原來城隍廟匾應該在的地方，是「豫園商城」四個字。
後來的事大家都知道了，城隍廟又變回了道觀，城隍秦裕伯又回來了，城隍霍光又回來了……什麼？上海有兩位城隍？算客氣的了，要是加上陳化成，上海曾經有三位城隍呢！衹是他們沒有三權分立，一起庇護着上海的萬千生靈。
我來到了臺南府城隍廟，又要來斷句了，到底是「臺南府」「城隍廟」呢？還是「臺南」「府城隍廟」呢？嚴格地說，應該是「臺南」「臺灣府」「城隍廟」。臺南，曾經是臺灣府的府城所在地，什麼概念呢？也就是說臺南曾經是臺灣的首都。後來呢，臺灣府的府城被搬到了臺北，被誰搬的呢？被我的高祖父邵友濂搬的。
臺灣府城隍廟，建於1669年，當時是承天府城隍廟，是臺灣最早的官建城隍廟，幾百年流傳至今，當中沒有做過商場，在清朝時，改名為「臺灣府城隍廟」。
臺灣府城隍廟供奉的是威靈公，與上海城隍有名有姓實有其人不同，臺灣府城隍沒有一個具體對應的人，威靈公是他的爵位，這是朱元璋登基後給全國的城隍封的，封京都金陵城隍為「福明靈王」，汴州、濠州、太平府、和州、滁州等府州「龍興之地」城隍亦封為正一品王爵，並加上「承天鑒國司民」的尊號。其餘城隍各賜爵位：府城隍封為「二品威靈公」、州城隍封為「三品靈祐侯」、縣城隍封為「四品顯祐伯」，並加上「鑒察司民」尊號；所以臺灣府的就是「威靈公」了。
如果你去到臺南的臺灣府城隍廟，你會笑的，因為這位王公的廟實在有點寒酸，那可比新建的上海城隍廟差多了。那就是在街上的一座小廟，沒有牌樓沒有山門，前殿（三川殿）直接建在路中央，與正殿間有拜亭連接，除亭的兩側狹窄的天井可以採光外，兩殿幾乎已成為一體。
三川殿（前殿）有一塊大匾，上書「爾來了」三字，與台南天壇的「一」字匾與竹溪寺的「了然世界」匾額合稱「臺南三大名匾」。在三川門楣的上方，有一隻很大的算盤，左右的對聯「善惡權由人自作，是非算定法難容」，象徵城隍公以算盤計算世人的功過，有懲惡揚善之意。其實他們還有一隻長達3.6米的大算盤，是「出會（出巡）」是用的。
別看廟小，供奉的神祇却不少，第一進的三川殿，有兩對七爺八爺（黑白無常）和一對甘爺柳爺，其中有一對黑白無常比人還高，很是可怖。
主殿正中有城隍爺威靈公，座前左右文判官、武判官，兩側是二十四司，分別是提刑司、保安司、陰陽司、考功司、感應司、速報司、巡政司、督糧司、註福司、儀禮司、賞善司、稽查司、地獄司、驅疫司、掌案司、察過司、良愿司、功曹司、文書司、學政司、註壽司、典籍司、罰惡司、檢簿司，據說每到考期，學子們都會來拜「考功司」「學政司」以祈好成績，說是會有大量的復印准考證供在兩位的案前——其是「考功司」是不管「考試功力」的，那是管「考核（官吏）功過」的，真正是拜錯了。
第三殿正中是觀音佛祖、上手城隍老爺與城隍奶奶，下手臨水夫人、註生娘娘、天上聖母。兩側則是十八羅漢，這裡的十八羅漢與常見的不儘相同，除了有同樣的「降龍」「伏虎」「長眉」「布袋」「達摩（過江）」「進獅（笑獅）」「開心（喜慶）」「淨耳（挖耳）」之外，其他都是平時並不常見的，象是「慈姿尊者、目蓮尊者、誌公尊者、不求尊者、觀經尊者、老僧尊者、飛鈸尊者、如恩尊者、大覺尊者」，甚至還有一位穿龍袍的「梁武帝尊者」。
此外，還有兩個單間的小殿，東邊是地藏王菩薩，右邊是福德正神（土地公）。你看，廟雖小，眾神齊全，一次拜個夠，方便又合算。
府城隍廟的建築也很有趣，除了屋頂的福祿壽三星、托塔天王十李靖、二郎神楊戩外，還有屋檐下的八仙，都是雕工精美值得一看的。有趣的是，有一對頂着屋檐的塑像，一看就不是中國人，叫做「憨番扛廟角」，足發一笑。
廟雖小，却值得好好玩玩，若是文物室開放，又有許多好東西，裡面還有原來二十四司的紙官帽，做得相當精緻，現在算是文物了，衹能放在展櫃中陳列了。
臺南還有自己的城隍廟——全臺首邑縣城隍廟，往西北步行1.3公里即至，但那是1980重新翻造的，我就興趣缺缺了。
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