5/5 Joseph L. 1 year ago on Google
Ever
since
I
realized
that
the
Grammy’s
was
a
popularity
contest
with
little
correlation
to
true
talent,
I
have
had
a
distrust
of
those
awarding
accolades.
As
a
certain
guide
swept
through
Toronto
awarding
stars,
there
were
some
questionable
choices
made,
and
more
importantly
some
damn
fine
restaurants
that
were
snubbed—like
Actinolite.
As
Otaku,
we
revel
in
glories
of
the
unsung
hero.
Ten
is
one
such
unsung
hero.
Ten
is
the
brainchild
of
a
creative,
29
year
old
chef,
Julian
Bentivegna,
opened
just
months
before
the
COVID
shutdown,
in
the
Brockton
Village
neighborhood
of
Toronto.
Chef
Bentivegna
introduced
himself
almost
immediately
upon
sitting
at
the
counter,
eager
to
share
his
restaurant’s
ethos:
veg
centric,
seasonal
cuisine
presented
in
ten
courses.
This,
of
course
is
exactly
why
we
chose
to
dine
at
Ten,
so
he
was
covering
well-trodden
ground.
What
was
not
so
well-trod
was
his
treatment
of
the
vegetal
divas.
In
our
experience,
most
fine
dining
restaurants
that
are
(or
have
turned)
veg-centric
treat
their
ingredients
in
either
the
traditional
Japanese
manner—minimalism
highlighting
natural
flavors,
or
in
the
other
extreme
the
traditional
Indian
manner—an
exciting
masala
of
flavors
creating
a
synergistic
whole,
losing
the
individual
parts.
I
do
not
mean
actual
Japanese/Indian
flavors,
just
styles
of
preparation.
If
I
had
to
catergorize
Chef
Bentivegna’s
style
it
would
be
right
in
the
middle
of
these
two
styles—
the
traditional
French
manner.
Here,
the
flavor
of
the
vegetable
was
paramount,
but
paired
with
some
strong
flavors
which
highlighted
as
opposed
to
upstaging
the
star.
A
perfect
example
would
be
his
first
course
of
winter
radishes
sliced
into
a
fine
julienne
served
over
a
pine
nut
sauce,
and
spiked
with
bay
leaf
oil.
The
pairing
of
flavors
was
sublime,
and
required
in
the
chef
a
deft
palate
to
balance.
For
Sadako,
it
was
the
little
details.
As
a
preliminary
desert
course,
porcini
ice
cream
was
served
textured
with
toasted
rice,
and
salted
with
caviar
(another
sublime
pairing
of
flavors)
served
in
a
chilled,
wooden,
sakura-shaped
bowl,
and
crafted
to
resemble
a
buckeye.
It
is
the
details
like
chilling
the
plates
for
cold
dishes,
and
warming
the
plates
for
hot
dishes
that
is
so
often
overlooked.
While
portions
were
small
the
flavors
were
large,
and
we
left
sated.
Maitake
were
treated
in
the
Cajun
manner
where
a
mushroom
stock
was
reduced
and
deglazed
several
times
over
to
create
a
sweet,
intensely
flavored
mushroom
paired
with
simply
flavored
cashews
and
red
kale.
One
of
the
rare
fish
dishes,
featuring
a
hamachi
crudo
with
red
cabbage
was
flavored
with
chewy,
umami
salty
bits
which
I
later
found
out
to
be
chef’s
own
delicious
hamachi
XO
sauce.
There
was
intention
and
effort
clearly
present
in
every
dish.
Over
the
course
of
ten
courses,
chef
Bentivegna
presented
us
ten
diners
with
an
inspired
cuisine
on
par
with
the
finest
dishes
the
City
of
Toronto
has
to
offer;
an
experience
highly
recommended
by
the
Otaku,
of
course.
Follow
us
on
IG
and
FB:
Buffalo
Food
Otaku.
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