5/5 Justin L. 10 months ago on Google
To
me
an
amazing
fine
dining
experience
is
like
reading
a
great
novel.
It
takes
you
on
an
adventure,
immersing
you
into
its
story
be
it
set
in
an
exotic,
fantastical
locale
or
just
simply
down
the
corner.
These
novels
are
replete
with
the
classical
dichotomies
of
light
and
dark,
conflict
and
harmony,
joy
and
sadness,
birth
and
passing,
elation
and
conclusion.
Kiln
is
a
great
novel
over
18-20+
courses.
From
its
opening
pages
to
closing,
Kiln
is
an
epically
rich
story,
complete
in
its
ethos
of
cooking,
singular
in
its
approach,
minimalist
in
its
environs,
rounded
in
its
experience,
and
luxuriant
in
its
pairings.
From
when
you
enter
it's
an
experience.
A
frosted
glass
door
leads
down
a
long,
dark
wood
corridor
akin
to
a
Narnian
wardrobe
which
then
explodes
into
a
loft
of
light
and
cement
and
airiness
with
a
strangely
Gondorian,
Lord
of
the
Rings
tree
planted
in
the
middle.
Brutally
minimalist
in
its
layout
with
white
canvases
hanging
from
the
bare
cement
walls
surrounded
by
art
gallery
lighting,
it
almost
sets
the
stage
for
Pollock
to
walk
up
and
improvisationally
throw
paint
on
them.
Every
course
is
meticulous
and
calculating
yet
playful
with
touches
of
exquisite
flair.
The
opening
bites
are
exercises
in
bursts
of
umami
with
malt
vinegar,
beef
tendon,
and
roasted
onion
and
anchored
with
the
earthiness
of
the
counterbalancing
ingredients.
Dramatically
minimalist
akin
to
an
theater
lowering
its
lights
to
focus
on
the
soprano
on
center
stage,
the
courses
are
explosions
in
reductionism,
with
a
rabid
focus
on
ingredients,
French,
Nordic,
and
Japanese
technique,
and
preparation.
A
carabinero
prawn
with
kohlrabi,
chamomile,
and
grilled
cream
with
a
touch
of
spice
from
smoked
peppers
/
chipotle.
A
beet
cornette
with
a
dallop
of
bone
marrow
which
blended
smokiness,
fried
goodness
similar
to
how
a
fast
food
french
fry
hits
during
a
long
roadtrip,
and
brought
full
circle
with
a
juicy,
acidity
of
biting
into
a
(huckle)berry.
Chef
John
and
General
Manager
Julianna
hail
from
Sons
and
Daughters,
perhaps
my
favorite
Michelin-starred
restaurant
in
the
Bay
Area.
Where
Sons
and
Daughters'
ethos
was
minimalism
with
California
flair
and
color,
Kiln
SF
is
that
philosophy
approached
maniacally
and
singlemindedly.
This
is
most
reflected
in
the
fish
course
of
a
Norwegian
mackerel
that's
dry
aged
and
sauteed
with
ramp
and
shellfish.
It
was
a
delectable
combination
of
crisp,
fried
seaweed-like
fish
skin
with
a
luxuriant
shellfish
sauce
with
notes
of
scallop
and
lobster.
Following
the
mackeral
was
squab.
A
notoriously
difficult
bird,
essentially
an
innocent,
baby
pigeon
before
it
hits
teenage
years
and
morphs
into
a
raving
lunatic
New
York
City
pigeon.
Its
preparation
was
akin
to
a
Peking
duck
with
lacquered
skin
accompanied
with
an
asparagus
head,
burnt
honey,
and
a
liver
ganache.
Another
highlight
were
the
trio
of
dishes
that
showcased
venison.
Prepared
3
ways
-
a
custard,
grilled,
and
on
the
side,
the
dishes
were
executed,
technically
perfectly.
The
grilled
filet
was
wondrously
tender,
finished
with
a
beautiful
sauce
whose
acidity
helped
balance
and
cut
its
richness
and
a
little
cabbage
leaf
whose
crispness
was
a
tidy
addendum.
Throughout
the
evening,
service
was
attentive
yet
discrete
with
a
sincere
warmness.
And
the
wine
pairings
($165)...
oh
the
wine
pairings.
The
beverage
director,
Vincent
Balao,
most
recently
hails
from
Atelier
Crenn,
and
is
unleashed
on
this
banquet
of
possibilities.
A
sake
made
with
olive
yeast,
a
gorgeously
layered
yet
acid-forward,
rich
riesling
trocken
from
Mosel,
a
fantastical
vouvray,
and
a
rioja
fit
for
a
king
(among
others),
were
beautifully
paired.
Depth
yet
rounded,
exuberance
yet
can
be
buttoned
up
-
these
wines
and
sakes
were
spectacular.
Kiln
reminds
me
of
other
ascendant
restaurants
in
SF
that
have
opened
recently
-
Ssal
and
Nisei.
Michelin
stars
will
inevitably
come
in
the
near
future.
Yet
Kiln
stands
above.
It's
perhaps
the
best
restaurant
I've
dined
at
in
SF
in
the
past
4
years.
Make
a
reservation.
Indulge.
Think.
Savor.
Enjoy.
It's
that
good.
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