5/5 kajori b. 6 years ago on Google
With
fabulous
old
restaurants
in
the
city
of
Bangkok.
Desi
Indian,
now
have
yet
another
dining
destination
gearing
up
for
them
(if
you
wish
to
avoid
the
crowd
of
the
busy
city.
I
had
with
my
business
group
from
India
but
we
decided
to
try
it
to
find
out
for
ourselves.
Literally
the
restaurant’s
first
customers
of
the
day,
we
walked
into
a
space
that
was
quirky
yet
warm
and
inviting.
Graffiti
that
reminds
one
of
the
movie
Kung-Fu
Panda
adorned
the
walls
and
the
entire
restaurant
is
done
up
in
bright
hues.
The
space
was
well
partitioned
into
a
variety
of
seating
options
-
with
a
sprinkling
of
high
tables,
some
sofa
seating,
tables
by
the
floor-to-ceiling
windows
and
a
long
bar
with
bar
stools
begging
for
a
crowded
Saturday
night.
The
restaurant
is
spread
over
quite
a
large
area
with
a
lavish
terrace,
reminiscent
of
al
fresco
dining
in
Singapore
but
unfortunately
best
enjoyed
only
post
July
in
Bangkok.
Well,
come
to
the
point
i.e.
Food
off
course.
Pints
of
Chang
beer,
poppadoms,
sizzling
tandoori
things,
and
things
on
trolleys,
pungent
aromas,
rich
flavors,
complimentary
liqueurs,
and
the
occasional
strangled
call
for
an
a
trial
defibrillator
–
all
present
and
correct.
Against
this
backdrop,
the
Muglai
dishes
we
ordered
had
a
luminous
clarity
and
lightness
of
touch.
Smoky
basil
leaves,
acrid
creamy,
fruity
chili,
smoky
tandoori,
a
suggestion
of
fermentation
here
and
there.
Mutton
rara
was
a
clear
tomatoes-garlicky
broth
with
a
keen
edge
of
tamarind.
“Chicken
65”
(as
with
Danny’s
“Camber
well
Carrot”
in
With
nail
&
I,
the
explanation
for
the
name
is
endearingly
banal
–
it’s
made
of
chicken,
and
it
was
invented
in
1965,
was
crisp,
greaseless
and
lip-tingling
spicy.
Aleppey
fish
curry
was
creamy
and
beautifully
balanced;
with
a
glossy
coconut
sauce
lent
some
acidity
by
green
mango.
The
highlight
was
a
simple
dish,
but
somehow
a
perfect
one:
a
garlic
and
aloo
naan,
the
size
of
a
cricket
bat;
the
long,
rolled
pancake
crisp
and
sour;
the
potato
curry
inside
fluffy
and
aromatic;
the
coconut
chutney
on
the
side
delicate
and
sharp.
We
talked
to
the
guy
in
charge
as
we
sipped
our
complimentary
liqueurs
and
prepared
to
settle
up.
They
were
indeed
from
India
but
settled
in
Thailand;
they’d
taken
over
what
had
been
a
branch
of
the
Indian
Brasserie
(who’s
Eighties-style
square
plates
they
still
use,
a
little
confusingly).
The
name
is
a
tribute
to
a
much-loved
local
institution,
with
a
twist
of
regional
authenticity.
And
the
result
feels,
nourishing
and
consolingly
–
I
say
this
as
someone
whose
time
in
Southampton
is
divided
between
sitting
on
a
hospital
ward
and
tending
an
empty
house
–
like
home.
Well
Recommended.
Try
Once.
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