4/5 Jackie M. 6 months ago on Google
“Everybody
knows,”
Leonard
Cohen
croons
mournfully
from
the
speakers.
I
suspect,
given
the
peculiar
location
of
this
tiny
bistro,
everybody
may
not
know
about
it.
We’re
dining
at
St
Blaise
in
Gizella
Mall
in
Matraville.
From
Bunnerong
road,
there’s
no
signage,
so
getting
here
looks
like
you’re
entering
a
medical
centre.
Thankfully
my
phone’s
map
guided
me
to
a
free
and
conveniently
located
carpark
in
the
rear,
or
I
suspect
I
would
have
trouble
finding
this
quirky
little
spot.
Opening
in
April
this
year,
St
Blaise
is
the
work
of
chef
Vedran
Perojevic,
who
hails
from
Dubrovnik
on
the
Dalmatian
coast.
Perojevic
is
fresh
from
a
month
off
enjoying
the
Croatian
summer,
and
putting
out
an
interesting
chalkboard
menu
of
dishes.
There’s
whole
meal-in-a-plate
dishes
like
porchetta
($38)
seasoned
with
herbs
and
wild
mushroom
powder
to
leave
a
long,
earthy
savoury
note.
It’s
dished
up
with
Dutch
carrots,
nicely-cooked
spuds,
bok
choy
and
baked
baby
onions
drizzled
with
a
green
oil
my
dining
companion
calls
parsley,
but
I’m
convinced
has
a
lifted
hint
of
mint.
The
same
oil
appears
on
cured
salmon
($28)
draped
over
pickled
red
cabbage
and
fennel,
scattered
with
crushed
pistachios.
Vrganj
(or
porcini
as
we
know
it)
also
pops
up
in
the
small
plates,
like
bone
marrow
($35)
presented
on
slightly
inconvenient
rock
salt.
The
split
marrow
bone
is
blowtorched
then
adorned
with
freshly-mixed
lamb
tartare,
dabs
of
whipped
ricotta
and
dusted
in
porcini.
Without
spilling
any
into
the
rock
salt,
you
scoop
it
onto
thin
slices
of
freshly
made
focaccia.
The
same
bread
is
the
delivery
mode
for
fluffy
smoked
cod
pate
($25).
If
you’re
wondering
about
the
Italian
influences
on
this
Croatian-infused
menu,
after
being
ruled
by
the
republic
of
Venice
during
Renaissance
times,
Croatian
culture,
particularly
in
cities
like
Dubrovnik,
reflects
this
history.
And
if
you
need
another
reason
to
visit,
you
can
also
BYO
at
no
charge.